Life in Hong Kong is not all roses; it is often said that the city is stressed, crowded, and fast paced beyond other Asian cities. I have in vain tried to find a quiet place to sit and people-watch near my office. All but the most expensive Chinese restaurants are crowded, loud, and somewhat uncomfortable, with stools or plastic chairs and—typically—flourescent lighting. Eating, or drinking, is not a leisurely experience; it is considered odd to linger over the menu, or to sit alone pondering the complexities of life while observing urban life outside. Since such a pastime is my favorite way to spend an afternoon, I miss it tangibly. (I sometimes give in and visit Starbucks, or its Hong Kong equivalent, Pacific Coffee Company, although I hate to do it.) As we walked out of work on Friday, I asked my friend Darren, who is from here, if such a peaceful place existed, and if we could go there. He thought a while as we walked west, for a long while. Finally he had an inspiration. The place was in Shueng Wan, next to the water. Darren explained that it was one of just a few remaining tea houses from the 1940s-50s; most are still owned by the original family, and just holding on until the now-elderly owners pass away. The place was very quiet inside, with no overhead lights but just the sun coming in through the beads of condensing water on the refrigerated glass cases that made up the front wall. Inside one case were cans of Coke, Sprite, and tea, with a frosty coil running along the side. The other held egg custard tarts and other common pastries. The white tile floor was worn down to red in parts, and there was an altar on one wall, above the register. We sat in a small booth for a while, attended by the wizened and patient owner. Darren said that often you can see long-time patrons, who have become wealthy or prominent since the war, come to these humble old places for lunch and leave hundred dollar bills as generous, grateful payment. A group of laborers paid for their meal and left; I finished my red bean ice with delicious unhurriedness before walking out again to the busy street.

¶ 3:09 PM